Millie the Monkey Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

I haven’t designed a comforter pattern for quite some time, but I’m so glad I decided to turn my amigurumi Milo into a free monkey lovey crochet pattern for you.

Of course, I had to give this one a different name to Milo, after all an amigurumi and a lovey serve slightly different purposes. I mean, they’re both are cuddly and provide comfort, but the target age group is a little different… But hey, I’m not going to tell anyone of any age that they can’t make themselves a lovey to snuggle! It’s good for the soul, so I’m told. 😉

Without further ado, I’m delighted to share the free crochet pattern for Millie the Monkey Lovey with you. Simply keep scrolling on this page for all the information you need to crochet this adorable monkey comforter.

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If you would prefer to avoid the website ads and would like a downloadable version of this pattern (which includes a few more photos), you can find the PDF crochet pattern for Millie the Monkey Lovey via my online shops.

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Monkey Lovey Crochet Pattern Information

Materials needed

Here is the list of materials needed to crochet Millie the Monkey Lovey. Please note, I have used some affiliate links below to some of the products – these don’t make the products more expense, but will give me a very small percentage of commission if you do buy something from one of the links below.

• Worsted weight yarn in the following colours. For reference, I used Rico Design Creative Cotton Aran (amounts used are in brackets):
  • Colour A – Dark Brown (60 grams = 102 m / 112 yds)
  • Colour B – Light Brown (40 grams = 68 m / 75 yds)
  • Colour C – Cream (60 grams = 102 m / 112 yds)
• Crochet hook size 4mm (G) & 5mm (H)
• Stuffing
• Needle
• Scissors
• Pins
• Stitch marker
• Black embroidery thread
• Safety eyes 8mm (optional)

Monkey lovey size

Using the yarn and hooks specified in this pattern, my Millie turned out to be 29 cm / 11.4 ” high (from the top of the monkey head to the bottom of the blanket) and 52 cm / 20.5 ” wide (from corner to opposite corner across the blanket).

Gauge

Gauge is not required for this pattern, however keep tension consistent throughout. For reference, my gauge was as follows:

• Amigurumi Pieces:
  • 5 sc stitches on 2.5 cm/ 1 “
  • 5 rows on 2.5 cm / 1 “
• Blanket:
  • 6 dc stitches on 5 cm/ 1 “
  • 3 rows on 5 cm / 2.5 “

Crochet pattern abbreviations

This crochet pattern is written in US terms.

R# – Row/round number

st – Stitch

ch – Chain

sl st – Slip stitch

mc – Magic circle

sc – Single crochet

dc – Double crochet

inc – Increase

dec – Decrease

FLO – Front loop only

BLO – Back loop only

cc# – Change colour to the yarn indicated (#), e.g. ccB = change to yarn B (Light Brown)

[…] x … – Repeat the sequence of stitches in brackets x-times

*…** – Repeat the sequence of stitches between * and ** the number of times stated

(…) – Total number of stitches at the end of each row/round

Top tips and additional crochet pattern information

• Pattern level: Intermediate
• Yarn: The yarn choice is completely up to you, and you can change the yarn weight, material, and colours based on your own personal preference. Just be aware that the weight of your yarn may impact the hook size you need to use and also the size of your final make.
• Hook size: I recommend using a smaller hook size than recommended on the yarn label for the amigurumi pieces. This will stop the stuffing from appearing through your stitches. You will also need to change crochet hook size for the blanket.
• Eyes: In this pattern you have the choice of using safety eyes or embroidered eyes. Instructions are included for both. Please note that safety eyes are a choking hazard and are not suitable for children under 3 years of age.
• Working in rounds: All parts within this pattern are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.
• Stitch marker: Use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round/row to keep track of the number of stitches.
• Stuffing: Unless otherwise stated, stuff all amigurumi parts firmly as you crochet.
• Decreases: I recommend using invisible decreases for all amigurumi pieces throughout.
• Changing colour: To ensure straight lines, add the new colour in the last yarn over of the sc before the new colour is needed.
• X-Shaped Single Crochet: For all amigurumi parts, I have used the X-Shaped Single Crochet stitch. This is completely optional. However, if you decide not to use this technique, I recommend using a 3.5mm (E) crochet hook for all amigurumi pieces (e.g. going down further in hook size) if using worsted/aran weight yarn.

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Millie the Monkey Lovey Crochet Pattern

Ears (Make 2)

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Dark Brown) and Colour B (Light Brown). Do not stuff.

Start with Yarn B.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Change to Yarn A.

R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

R5: BLO sc around (24)

R6: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)

R7: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

R8: [dec] x 6 (6)

Cut a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sc and pull tight to close gap.

Using a needle, weave remaining yarn tail through any corner st (where the increases are) between R5 & R6 in preparation for sewing. Repeat steps above to make a second ear.

Head

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Dark Brown) and Colour B (Light Brown). Stuff this piece throughout.

Start with Yarn A.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] X 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] X 6 (18)

R4: [2 sc, inc] X 6 (24)

R5: [3 sc, inc] X 6 (30)

R6: [4 sc, inc] X 6 (36)

R7: [5 sc, inc] X 6 (42)

R8: [6 sc, inc] X 6 (48)

R9 – R10: sc around (48) – 2 rounds

In each of the following rounds, you will be changing colour.

R11: 20 sc, ccB 2 sc, ccA 4 sc, ccB 2 sc, ccA 20 sc (48)

R12: 19 sc, ccB 3 sc, ccA 4 sc, ccB 3 sc, ccA 19 sc (48)

R13: 19 sc, ccB 4 sc, ccA 2 sc, ccB 4 sc, ccA 19 sc (48) – See image 3

R14: 18 sc, ccB 5 sc, ccA 2 sc, ccB 5 sc, ccA 18 sc (48)

R15: 18 sc, ccB 12 sc, ccA 18 sc (48)

R16: 18 sc, ccB 12 sc, ccA 18 sc (48) – See image below

R17: 18 sc, ccB 12 sc, ccA 18 sc (48)

R18: [6 sc, dec] x 2, 2 sc, ccB 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, ccA dec, [6 sc, dec] x 2 (42)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R14 and R15. There are approximately 6 sts between the eyes. If embroidering the eyes, this can be left until assembly.

Cut Colour B (Light Brown) yarn and continue to use Colour A (Dark Brown) for the rest of the head.

R19: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)

R20: [4 sc, dec] x 6 (30)

R21: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)

Start stuffing.

R22: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)

R23: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Finish stuffing firmly.

R24: [dec] x 6 (6)

Cut yarn, leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing, then fasten off. Using a needle, weave yarn tail into the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull yarn tail tight to close the gap.

Arms (Make 3)

Use a 4 mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Dark Brown) & Colour B (Light Brown). Stuff lightly.

Start with Yarn B.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

R4 – R6: sc around (18) – 3 rounds

R7: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Change to Yarn A.

R8 – R12: sc around (12) – 5 rounds

Stuff hand firmly and continue to stuff the arm very lightly until you reach R22.

R13 – R21: sc around (12) – 9 rounds

R22: Hold sides together, ch 1 then sc 6 across to join both sides together (6)

Cut yarn leaving a tail for sewing and fasten off. Repeat steps to make second arm.

Mouth

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour B (Light Brown). Do not stuff this piece.

To crochet the mouth, you will start by crocheting a chain then crochet around both sides of the chain. Sl Sts and Chs are not counted in the total stitch counts.

Start: 11 ch

R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook 2 sc in ch, sc in next 8 chs, 2 sc in next ch, continue working along the other side of the chain, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 8 chs, 2 sc in next ch, sl st to first sc in round (24)

R2: ch, 2 sc in same st (as sl st from R1), sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 sts, sl st to first sc in round (26)

R3: ch, sc around, sl st to join (26)

R4: ch, sc around, sl st to join or use an invisible fasten off instead of the sl st (26)

Cut yarn leaving a long yarn tail for sewing and fasten off.

Blanket

Using a 5mm (H) crochet hook and Yarn Colour A (Dark Brown), B (Light Brown), and C (Cream).

Do not stuff.

Start with Yarn A. Total st count does not include starting ch-3 or sl st.

R1: mc, ch 3, then in the mc 2 dc, ch 2, [3 dc, ch 2] x 5, sl st to top of starting ch-3 to join (12 chs, 17 dcs)

R2: ch 3, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, sl st to top of 1st dc (not the ch-3) to join (12 chs, 29 dcs)

R3: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining dc, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 41 dcs)

R4: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 2 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 53 dcs)

R5: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 3 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 65 dcs)

R6: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 4 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 77 dcs)

Change to Yarn C.

R7: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 5 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 89 dcs)

R8: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 6 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 101 dcs)

R9: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 7 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 113 dcs)

Change to Yarn B.

In R10 – R12, we’ll be using the Lemon Peel Crochet Stitch, which is simply alternating between a dc in one st, then a sc in the next st. All corners however keep the same st pattern of [dc, ch 2, dc]. You will also turn your work at the end of each of these rounds to crochet in the opposite direction.

R10: ch 1, [dc in st, sc in next st] repeat to corner, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 9, sc**, repeat from * to ** 4 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 4, sc, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 125 sts)

R11: ch 3, turn, [sc in st, dc in next st] x 4, sc, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 10, sc**, repeat from * to ** 4 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 5, sc, sl st to top of ch-3 to join (12 chs, 137 sts)

R12: ch 1, turn, [dc in st, sc in next st] x 6, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 11, sc**, repeat from * to ** 4 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 5, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 149 sts)

Change to Colour C. See image below.

R13: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each st, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 11 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 161 dcs)

R14: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 12 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 173 dcs)

R15: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 13 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 185 dcs)

Change to Yarn B.

R16: ch 1, sc in every st around including chs, sl st to first sc in round to join (198 scs)

Cut yarn and fasten off with an invisible fasten off. Weave in all yarn ends to hide. See completed the blanket section of the monkey lovey in the image below.

Assembly

Follow the steps below to assemble Millie the Monkey Lovey. See photo below of Millie the Monkey Lovey completed so you can compare these images against the assembly steps below.

Step 1: Sew mouth to head

Sew mouth to face using yarn tail from the mouth piece. Stuff the mouth piece firmly when you’ve sewn half-way across. The mouth sits between R16 and R24 of the head. The Yarn Colour B (Light Brown) section of the face should sit in the middle of the mouth.

Step 2: Sew ears to head

Ensure you have weaved the yarn tail of each ear to a corner st between R5 & R6 (refer to ear pattern).

Sew approximately 4 sts of each ear to either side of the head. Each ear should sit on each side of the monkey’s head.

The ears should be on a slight angle between R12 and R15. The Yarn B (Light Brown) section of the ears should face the front of the head. There are approximately 20 sts between the top of the ears and 22 sts between the bottom of the ears.

Step 3: Sew head to blanket

Using the yarn tail from the head, sew the head to the middle of the blanket. Sew between R22 to R23 of the head to R1 of the blanket.

Step 4: Sew arms to head and blanket

Sew the arms to either side of the head using the yarn tails from each arm. The arms are sewn to R1 of the blanket and between R22 to R23 of the head for extra security.

Step 5: Embroider a nose

Using black embroidery thread, embroider a nose on the top of the mouth.

Step 6: Embroider eyes (Optional)

If you decided not to use safety eyes, embroider eyes between R14 & R16 of the head. I opted for an embroidered sleepy eye with eyelashes. Alternatively, you could embroider some simple eyes.

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Congratulations, you’ve finished crocheting Millie the Monkey Lovey!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this free monkey lovey crochet pattern.

I’d absolutely love to see your creations and share them with the community. You can share your makes with me by posting a picture on social media using the hashtag #CillaCrochets and by tagging me @cillacrochets. I’ll also see your makes if you upload a project (with a photo) to Ravelry linking to my pattern.

If you’ve enjoyed this crochet pattern, you may also enjoy exploring more of the free crochet patterns on my website. I hope you find something else you like too!

Until next time, happy crocheting,

Cilla x