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The free crochet pattern for Gerry the Gingerbread Man can be found right on this blog post here.

I love celebrating Christmas – all the decorations, a holiday off work, the sparkles, the lights, everyone always seems to be in a better mood, the presents and the gift-giving, spending time with those you love, and of course, the food! What’s not to love! As such, I always put quite a bit of time and thought into the crochet Christmas patterns I design. And I love making a big thing of it!

Two years ago, for example, I did a twelve days of Christmas, where I released the free pattern for an easy Christmas decoration each day for twelve days. While not a crochet-along, it had that kind of feel, and it was so much fun! I really wanted to do something similar this year, however I just moved house (into the first house I’ve ever owned in fact!) earlier this month. So unfortunately, I knew I just wasted going to have time to do anything that spanned multiple days.

BUT! To make up for that, I wanted to design a cute and relatively easy-to-make Christmas character crochet pattern, which is when the idea of a Gingerbread Man struck me. The rest was history, now I am delighted to introduce you to your 2024 Christmas free crochet pattern – Gerry the Gingerbread Man.

Gingerbread Man free crochet pattern by Cilla Crochets. Pin this free crochet pattern for later.

Now, without further ado, let’s jump to the free crochet pattern and start crocheting!

Prefer the PDF crochet pattern?

If you would prefer to skip the ads and get a downloadable crochet pattern of Gerry the Gingerbread Man, you can find the PDF on Ravelry or Etsy.

Ravelry Etsy

Gingerbread Man Free Crochet Pattern Information

Materials needed

Here are the items you’ll need to start crocheting your Gerry using this Gingerbread Man free crochet pattern. Please note: there are some affiliate links below, but these don’t make the products more expensive, it just means I’ll get a small commission if you do buy something after clicking on one of these links.

Gingerbread Man Amigurumi Size

Using the yarn and hooks specified in this pattern, my Gerry turned out to be 21 cm / 8.3 ” high (from the feet to the top of the hat) and 6.5 cm / 2.6 ” wide (across the largest part of the head).

Gauge

Gauge is not required for this pattern, however keep tension consistent throughout. For reference, my gauge was as follows:

6 sc stitches on 2.5 cm/ 1 “

6 rows on 2.5 cm / 1 “

Crochet pattern abbreviations

This crochet pattern is written in US terms.

R# – Row/round number

st – Stitch

ch – Chain

sl st – Slip stitch

mc – Magic circle

sc – Single crochet

inc – Increase

dec – Decrease

FLO – Front loop only

BLO – Back loop only

cc# – Change colour to the yarn indicated (#), e.g. ccB = change to yarn B (White)

[…] x … – Repeat the sequence of stitches in brackets x-times

*…** – Repeat the sequence of stitches between * and ** the number of times stated

(…) – Total number of stitches at the end of each row/round

Top tips and additional crochet pattern information

  • Pattern level: Easy
  • Yarn: The yarn choice is completely up to you, and you can change the yarn weight, material, and colours based on your own personal preference. Just be aware that the weight of your yarn may impact the hook size you need to use and also the size of your final make.
  • Hook size: I recommend using a smaller hook size than recommended on the yarn label. This will stop the stuffing from appearing through your stitches.
  • Eyes: In this pattern you have the choice of using safety eyes or embroidered eyes. Instructions are included for both. Please note that safety eyes are a choking hazard and are not suitable for children under 3 years of age.
  • Working in rounds: All parts within this pattern are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.
  • Stitch marker: Use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round/row to keep track of the number of stitches.
  • Stuffing: Unless otherwise stated, stuff all amigurumi parts firmly as you crochet.
  • Decreases: I recommend using invisible decreases for all amigurumi pieces throughout.
  • Changing colour: To ensure straight lines, add the new colour in the last yarn over of the sc before the new colour is needed.
  • Copyright: You are more than welcome to sell your crocheted elephant lovey using this pattern on a small scale. However, the pattern itself cannot be reproduced, sold, or redistributed in any way without the designers’ consent. For more information, please read the full copyright notice at the bottom of this page.

Gerry the Gingerbread Crochet Pattern

HEAD, BODY, AND LEGS

The head, body, and legs of Gerry are crocheted in one continuous piece. We start crocheting from the top of the head and continue down to the legs.

Use Yarn Colour A (Light Brown) and Colour B (White). Stuff this piece firmly throughout.

Start with Yarn A.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

R5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)

R6: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)

R7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)

R8 – R16: sc around (42) – 9 rounds

Insert safety eyes between R12 and R13 with approximately 7 sts between the eyes. If you’ve chosen to embroider the eyes, this can be left to after assembly.

R17: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)

R18: [4 sc, dec] x 6 (30)

R19: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)

R20: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)

Stuff the head firmly.

R21: [4 sc, dec] x 3 (15)

R22: sc around (15)

R23: [2 sc, inc] x 5 (20)

R24: [4 sc, inc] x 4 (24)

R25: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)

R26: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)

R27: [8 sc, inc] x 4 (40)

R28 – R37: sc around (40) – 10 rounds

Lightly stuff the body to this point.

Now we’ll split the body into two sections in preparation of crocheting the legs.

Use one stitch marker to split the body evenly in two – we will call this the ‘splitting st marker’. The splitting st marker will go through 2 sts of the body (1 at the front and 1 at the back) and there will be 19 sts on either side. See the image below – the yellow st marker is the splitting st marker, and the pink st marker indicates the start of the next round.

Please note: your starting place (pink st marker) may be in a different position to mine, it could even be on the other side of the splitting st marker. This isn’t a problem.

Your splitting st marker should be roughly in the middle of the eyes, if you were to draw a line down the middle of the amigurumi piece (see image below). As we will most likely have our starting stitch marker in a different position, you may be starting on a different leg to me (left or right), but the rounds in the following section remain the same no matter where your starting stitch marker is.

Now let’s crochet our first leg.

R38: sc in each st until you reach the splitting st marker, ch 4, sc into the st on the opposite side where the splitting st marker is (move your splitting st marker so it is in the st that hasn’t been crocheted into on the front/back), then continue to sc in each st around until you get back to where you started (20 sc, 4 chs) – See image below. At this point there should be 20 sts either side of the ch 4 for both legs.

R39: sc in each st until you reach the splitting st marker, sc into the side of the ch closest to the leg you are crocheting (if you’re working on the right leg like me, crochet into the right side of the chain; alternatively, if you are crocheting the left leg, crochet into the left side of the chain, sc in each st until you reach the end of the round (24)

R40: sc around (24)

*R41: [10 sc, dec] x 2 (22)

Start stuffing leg and continue stuffing throughout.

R42 – R45: sc around (22) – 4 rounds

Change to Yarn B.

R46: sc, [ccA sc, ccB sc] x 10, ccA sc (22)

R47: ccB sc around (22)

R48: [ccA sc, ccB sc] x 11 (22)

Cut Yarn B and change back to Yarn A.

R49 – R50: sc around (22) – 2 rounds

R51: [4 sc, dec] x 3, 2 sc, dec (18)

R52: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Stuff leg firmly.

R53: [dec] x 6 (6)

Cut yarn leaving a shorter yarn tail for weaving in the ends and fasten off.

Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sc. Pull yarn tail tight to close gap in leg, then sew yarn tail into the body to hide.**

Now we’ll crochet the second leg.

Attach Yarn A with a ch to any unworked st on the other side of the splitting st marker.

R39: sc in same st where yarn is attached and continue to sc in each st until you reach the splitting st marker or the other completed leg, sc into each unworked ch between the legs (see image below), sc until you reach the end of the round (24)

R40: sc around (24)

At this point, finish stuffing the body.

Repeat the steps from *R41 for the first leg until you reach **.

See completed Head, Body, and Legs in the image below.

ARMS (MAKE 2)

Use Yarn Colour A (Light Brown) & B (White). Stuff lightly.

Start with Yarn A.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [2 sc, inc] x 4 (16)

R4 – R5: sc around (16) – 2 rounds

Change to Colour B (White) yarn.

R6: sc around (16)

Change to Colour A yarn.

R7 – R18: sc around (16) – 12 rounds

Stuff approximately half the arm firmly, then continue to the rest lightly.

R19: ch 1, hold the end of the arm together to flatten it and 8 sc into both sides of the arm to join them together (8) – see image below

Repeat all steps above to make a second arm.

See completed arms in the image below.

SCARF

Use Yarn Colour C (Green) and D (Red).

This item is crocheted back and forth in rows. Turning chains are not counted in the total st count. This piece is not stuffed.

Start with Yarn D.

Start: Ch 6

R1: Start in 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn (5)

R2: sc across, ch 1, turn (5)

Change to Colour C yarn.

R3 – R12: sc across, ch 1, turn (5) – 10 rows

R13: dec, sc, dec, ch 1, turn (3)

R14 – R27: sc across, ch 1, turn (3) – 14 rows

R28: inc, sc, inc, ch 1, turn (5)

R29 – R38: sc across, ch 1, turn (5) – 10 rows

Change to Colour C yarn.

R39: sc across, ch 1, turn (5)

R40: sc across (5)

Cut yarn, fasten off. Sew in all yarn tails. See completed scarf in the image below.

TOP HAT

Use Yarn Colour C (Red) & E (Black).

Do not stuff.

Start with Yarn E.

R1: mc with 8 sc (8)

R2: [inc] x 8 (16)

R3: [sc, inc] x 8 (24)

R4: BLO sc in each st around (24)

R5 – R8: sc around (24) – 4 rounds

Change to Yarn C.

R9: sc around (24)

Change to Yarn E.

R10: FLO [2 sc, inc] x 8 (32)

R11: [3 sc, inc] x 8 (40)

Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. I recommend using an invisible fasten off (see photo tutorial on page 12).

Sew in all yarn tails except for the longer yarn tail you ended with.

See completed Top Hat in image below.

HOLLY (HAT DETAIL)

Use Yarn Colour C (Green) and D (Red).

Start with Yarn C.

Start: Ch 4

In the next row we will create 3 green leaves. This row is split into dot points to make it easier to follow.

R1:

  • Start in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 chs. This is the 1st leaf.
  • Ch 4, start in 2nd ch from hook and sl st in next 3 chs. This is the 2nd leaf.
  • Ch 4, start in 2nd ch from hook and sl st in next 3 chs. This is the 3rd leaf.
  • Sl st to the other side at the bottom of the first ch (e.g. see image below)

Cut yarn and fasten off. Sew in Yarn C to the back of the leaves and cut to hide.

Using a little bit of Colour D and a tapestry needle, sew in between the 3 leaves to create a section of red as shown in image below.

Using the red yarn, sew the mistletoe to the red strip on the hat as shown in image below.

BUTTONS (MAKE 2)

Use Yarn Colour E (Black).

Do not stuff.

R1: mc with 6 sc, sl st to first sc in round (6)

Cut yarn, fasten off leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing.

Repeat steps above to make 2 buttons.

Assemble Gerry the Gingerbread Man

Follow the five steps below to assemble your Gerry the Gingerbread Man.

Step 1: Sew arms to body

Pin the arms to the body in preparation for sewing. The arms should sit between approximately R25 and R26 of the body, with approximately 10 sts between the arms at the front of the body. Once you’re happy with the positioning of your arms, use the yarn tails from the arms and a tapestry needle to sew them into place on the body.

Step 2: Sew top hat to head

Pin the Top Hat to the head in preparation for sewing. It is optional to add stuffing to the hat before sewing it to the head. I didn’t use any as my cotton yarn stays upright, but if you need some please do add it at this point. The Top Hat sits on an angle over the head covering R4 on the left side of the head to R10 on the right side of the head. Use the yarn tail from the Top Hat and a tapestry needle to sew between R10 and R11 of the hat to the head to keep it in place. See Top Hat sewn to Head in the image below.

Step 3: Sew buttons to body

Pin the buttons to the body in preparation for sewing. The first button sits in the middle of the body between R27 and R28. The second button sits in the middle of the body between R33 and R34. Use a tapestry needle and the yarn tails from the buttons to sew them into place. See buttons sewn to body in the image below.

Step 4: Sew scarf on Gerry

Place the scarf around Gerry the Gingerbread Man’s neck so it overlaps in the front. Then using a little bit of Yarn C and a tapestry needle, sew a couple of stitches just through the two scarf ends where they overlap so they stay in place. This means the scarf can swivel on Gerry’s neck, but you won’t be able to take it off as it will be too tight to fit over the head. See scarf sewn together on Gerry in image below.

Step 5: Embroidery

Now, it’s embroidery time! Using your black embroidery thread and a tapestry needle give your Gerry the Gingerbread Man some eyebrows and a smile as shown in the image below. If you haven’t used safety eyes, embroider your eyes first using this easy eye embroidery tutorial here.

Congratulations, you’ve finished crocheting Gerry the Gingerbread Man!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this Gingerbread Man free crochet pattern.

I’d absolutely love to see your makes and share them with the community. You can share your makes with me by posting a picture on social media using the hashtag #CillaCrochets and by tagging me @cillacrochets. I’ll also see your makes if you upload a project (with a photo) to Ravelry linking to my pattern.

If you’ve enjoyed this pattern, you may also enjoy exploring more of the free crochet patterns on my website. I hope you find something else you like too!

Until next time, happy crocheting,

Cilla x

Copyright Notice

© 2024 Cilla Crochets. Cilla Richards – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only.

The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared, or posted (for sale or for free) over the internet or offline.

You can sell items made from this pattern if they are handmade by yourself in a limited number and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following text to your item description for any item designed by Cilla Crochets/Cilla Richards that you are selling:

“This product is handmade by [your name] from a design and pattern by Cilla Richards at Cilla Crochets. See www.cillacrochets.com for more information.”

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