Elsie the Elephant Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

Use this free crochet elephant lovey pattern to make your own adorabale Elsie the Elephant. This is a great as a gift for a newborn (that’s what I’ll be doing with mine!), or as an item to sell at markets or fairs.

After designing Millie the Monkey Lovey, I just knew I wanted to design another baby comforter crochet pattern. They are so much fun to make and I love that they mix things up when you crochet. Being able to crochet a little bit of a blanket using a granny square type technique along with a bit of an amigurumi is totally the best of both worlds.

The results also speak for themselves. The amigurumi cross blanket is not only adorable but always a welcomed gift for any newborns. I’ve also been told by a childcare professional that the weight of the wee amigurumi part can be very comforting to new born babies. Babies also love chewing on any bits that stick out (so make sure all your ami stitches and embroidery are super tight for safety).

Anyway, I knew when choosing another animal theme for a lovey that an elephant was going to be on the list at some point. For one, I have an obsession with elephants (toys/ornaments etc.) that have their trunks up. This is meant to be a sign of good luck and is a superstition that was taught to me as a child that I’ve never been able to go of. So obviously, I had to make this free crochet elephant lovey pattern with a trunk up! Secondly, since my most recent lovey was a Monkey, I thought an Elephant would be a great addition since it’s another ‘jungle’ animal. I see a lovey theme in my future…

Enough about why I decided to design this little cutie and let’s dive straight in to the free crochet elephant lovey pattern!

---

Prefer the elephant lovey PDF crochet pattern?

If you would prefer to get the PDF crochet pattern for Elsie the Elephant Lovey, you can access these from my Etsy, Ravelry, and Lovecrafts stores. The PDF pattern is the same pattern on this webpage, however it includes some extra images and no ads.

---

Elephant Lovey Crochet Pattern Information

Materials needed

Here is a list of the materials you’ll need to crochet Elsie the Elephant Lovey. Please note: I have used some affiliate links here – these don’t make the products more expensive, but it means I’ll get a small commission if you do buy something after clicking one of these links below.

• Worsted weight yarn in the following colours. For reference, I used Rico Design Creative Cotton Aran (amounts used are in brackets):
  • Colour A – Grey (80 grams = 136 m / 149 yds)
  • Colour B – White (45 grams = 76.5 m / 84 yds)
  • Colour C – Pink (20 grams = 34 m / 37 yds)
• Crochet hook size 4mm (G) & 5mm (H)
• Stuffing
• Needle
• Scissors
• Pins
• Stitch marker
• Black embroidery thread (option 1)
• Safety eyes 8mm (option 2)

Elephant lovey size

Using the yarn and hooks specified in this pattern, my Elsie turned out to be 32 cm / 12.6″ high (from the top of the elephant’s ears to the bottom of the blanket) and 52 cm / 20.5 ” wide (from corner to opposite corner across the blanket).

Gauge

Gauge is not required for this pattern, however keep tension consistent throughout. For reference, my gauge was as follows:

• Amigurumi Pieces:
  • 5 sc stitches on 2.5 cm/ 1 “
  • 5 rows on 2.5 cm / 1 “
• Blanket:
  • 6 dc stitches on 5 cm/ 2.5 “
  • 3 rows on 5 cm / 2.5 “

Crochet pattern abbreviations

This crochet pattern is written in US terms.

R# – Row/round number

st – Stitch

ch – Chain

sl st – Slip stitch

mc – Magic circle

sc – Single crochet

dc – Double crochet

bo – Bobble stitch

inc – Increase

dec – Decrease

FLO – Front loop only

BLO – Back loop only

rs – Right side

ws – Wrong side

cc# – Change colour to the yarn indicated (#), e.g. ccB = change to yarn B (White)

[…] x … – Repeat the sequence of stitches in brackets x-times

*…** – Repeat the sequence of stitches between * and ** the number of times stated

(…) – Total number of stitches at the end of each row/round

Top tips and additional crochet pattern information

• Pattern level: Intermediate
• Yarn: The yarn choice is completely up to you, and you can change the yarn weight, material, and colours based on your own personal preference. Just be aware that the weight of your yarn may impact the hook size you need to use and also the size of your final make.
• Hook size: I recommend using a smaller hook size than recommended on the yarn label for the amigurumi pieces. This will stop the stuffing from appearing through your stitches. You will also need to change crochet hook size for the blanket.
• Eyes: In this pattern you have the choice of using safety eyes or embroidered eyes. Instructions are included for both. Please note that safety eyes are a choking hazard and are not suitable for children under 3 years of age.
• Working in rounds: All parts within this pattern are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.
• Stitch marker: Use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round/row to keep track of the number of stitches.
• Stuffing: Unless otherwise stated, stuff all amigurumi parts firmly as you crochet.
• Decreases: I recommend using invisible decreases for all amigurumi pieces throughout.
• Changing colour: To ensure straight lines, add the new colour in the last yarn over of the st before the new colour is needed.
• Copyright: You are more than welcome to sell your crocheted elephant lovey using this pattern on a small scale. However, the pattern itself cannot be reproduced, sold, or redistributed in any way without the designers’ consent. For more information, please read the full copyright notice at the bottom of this page.

Special crochet stitches

• X-Shaped Single Crochet: For all amigurumi parts, I have used the X-Shaped Single Crochet stitch. To complete this stitch: insert hook into next st, yarn under (instead of ‘yarn over’), pull through st, yarn under again, pull through the two loops on your hook. This is a completely optional st method. If you decide not to use this technique, I recommend using a 3.5mm (E) hook size for all amigurumi pieces.
• Bobble Stitch (bo): This stitch is used to create the nails on the arms: *yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through st (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook.** Repeat from * to ** going into the same st each time, until there are five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all five loops on your hook to complete st.
• Lemon Peel Stitch: This stitch combination is used for a small section of the blanket but is explained clearly within the pattern. To complete the Lemon Peel Stitch: *sc in one st, dc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until you reach the end of the round/row. Turn your work to crochet in the opposite direction. Repeat from * to ** again until you reach the end of the round/row. After round/row one of the Lemon Peel Stitch, ensure all sc sts are crocheted into dc sts of the previous round/row, and dc sts are crocheted into sc sts of the previous round/row. This pattern of alternating sts combined with turning your work (alternating rounds/rows of right side and wrong side) is what creates the lovely stitch texture.

---

Elsie the Elephant Lovey Crochet Pattern

HEAD

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Grey). Stuff this piece throughout.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] X 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] X 6 (18)

R4: [2 sc, inc] X 6 (24)

R5: [3 sc, inc] X 6 (30)

R6: [4 sc, inc] X 6 (36)

R7: [5 sc, inc] X 6 (42)

R8: [6 sc, inc] X 6 (48)

R9 – R17: sc around (48) – 9 rounds

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R14 and R15. There are approximately 10 sts between the eyes. If embroidering the eyes, this can be left until assembly.

R18: [6 sc, dec] x 6 (42)

R19: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)

R20: [4 sc, dec] x 6 (30)

R21: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)

Start stuffing.

R22: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)

R23: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Finish stuffing firmly.

R24: [dec] x 6 (6)

Cut yarn, leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing, then fasten off. Using a needle, weave yarn tail into the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull yarn tail tight to close the gap.

TRUNK

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Grey). Stuff this piece throughout.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [sc, inc] X 3 (9)

R3: sc around (9)

R4: dec, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (9)

R5: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (10)

R6: dec, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc (10)

R7: 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (12)

R8: dec, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc (12)

R9: 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14)

R10: dec, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc (14)

R11: sc around (14)

R12: 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16)

R13: dec, 6 sc, inc, 7 sc (16)

R14: sc around (16)

R15: dec, 6 sc, inc, 7 sc (16)

R16: dec, 6 sc, inc, 7 sc (16)

Stuff piece firmly. Cut yarn, leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing, then fasten off. I recommend using an invisible fasten off for this piece.

See completed trunk in the image below.

EARS (MAKE 2)

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Grey) and Colour C (Pink). Do not stuff. This section is broken down into 4 separate steps.

Step 1: Small Ear Lobe (Make 4)

Use the instructions below to make 4 small ear lobes. Two small ear lobes should be made using Colour A (Grey) Yarn and the other two should be made using Colour C (Pink) Yarn.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

Cut yarn leaving a shorter yarn tail and fasten off.

Repeat steps above until you have four Small Ear Lobes – 2 in Yarn A & 2 in Yarn C.

Step 2: Upper Ear (Make 4)

Use the instructions below to make 4 Upper Ears. Two Upper Ears should be made using Colour A (Grey) Yarn and the other two should be made using Colour C (Pink) Yarn.

R1: mc with 6 sc (6)

R2: [inc] x 6 (12)

R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

R5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)

R6: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)

Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off.

Repeat steps above until you have four Upper Ears – 2 in Colour A & 2 in Colour B.

Step 3: Join Lower and Upper Ears By Sewing

*Line up one Small Ear Lobe with one Upper Ear of the same colour so that both sections that are fastened off face each other. The right side of both pieces should also be facing the same way.

Using the yarn tail from the Upper Ear sew five sts of the Small Ear Lobe to five sts of the Upper Ear. To create a smoother appearance, start with the st behind the fasten off on the Upper Ear and continue with four more sts after the fasten off.

Once both pieces are sewn together securely, weave the yarn tails into the wrong side of the pieces to hide.**

Repeat from * to ** for the remaining three sets of Ear pieces.

Step 4: Crochet Ears Together

Hold one Colour A ear and one Colour C ear together with the rs of both pieces facing outwards. Now we’re going to join the two sides together by crocheting around the outside of the ear.

***With the Colour C piece facing upwards, attach Colour A yarn with a ch to the first st on the Upper Ear after the sewed section of both pieces (see image below). Ch again, hdc in same st and then in each st around the Upper and Lower Ear ensuring there are no gaps. Sl st to your first hdc to end the round. Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. (50 hdc sts)****

Hold the remaining ear pieces together and start from the first st on the small ear lobe as shown in image below. Now repeat from *** to **** until the second ear is sewn together.

LEGS (MAKE 2)

Use a 4mm (G) crochet hook with Yarn Colour A (Grey) and C (White).

Start with Yarn A.

R1: mc with 8 sc (8)

R2: [inc] x 8 (16)

R3: [inc, sc] x 8 (24)

R4: BLO for entire round – sc in next 9 sts, [ccC BLO bo, ccA 2 sc] x 3, 6 sc (24)

Fasten off Yarn Colour C and push the bo sts out so the textured puffy side is sticking out towards the rs of the leg.

R5 – R7: sc around (24) – 3 rounds

R8: [4 sc, dec] x 4 (20)

R9: [dec, 3 sc] x 4 (16)

R10 – R21: sc around (16) – 12 rounds

Stuff foot firmly and the rest of the leg lightly.

Prepare for R22: Your hook should be at the side of the leg as shown in the image below. If not, add more sts or undo sts as required to get to this starting position for R22.

R22: Hold sides together, ch 1 then sc 8 across to join both sides together (8)

Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing.

BLANKET

Using a 5mm (H) crochet hook and Yarn Colour A (Grey), B (White), and C (Pink).

Do not stuff.

Start with Yarn A. Total st count does not include starting sl st. Starting chs in each round are counted as a st (ch-3 = dc, ch-1 = sc).

R1: mc, ch 3, then in the mc 2 dc, ch 2, [3 dc, ch 2] x 5, sl st to top of starting ch-3 to join (12 chs, 18 dcs)

R2: ch 3, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, sl st to top of 1st dc (not the ch-3) to join (12 chs, 30 dcs)

R3: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining dc, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 42 dcs)

R4: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 2 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 54 dcs)

R5: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 3 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 66 dcs)

R6: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 4 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 78 dcs)

Change to Yarn B.

R7: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 5 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 90 dcs)

R8: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 6 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 102 dcs)

R9: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 7 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 114 dcs)

Change to Yarn C.

In R10 – R12, we’ll be using the Lemon Peel Stitch, which means alternating between a dc in one st, then a sc in the next st (see special stitches section). However, keep the same st pattern of [dc, ch 2, dc] for all corners. You will also turn your work at the end of each of these rounds to crochet in the opposite direction.

R10: ch 1, dc in same st, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] x 4, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 9, sc**, repeat from * to ** 5 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 4, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 126 sts) – See image 19

R11: ch 3, turn, sc in last dc of R10, dc in next st, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 3, sc, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 10, sc**, repeat from * to ** 5 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 5, sc, sl st to top of 1st sc to join (12 chs, 138 sts)

R12: ch 1, turn, dc in last sc of R11, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] x 5, *[in corner space dc, ch 2, dc], [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 11, sc**, repeat from * to ** 5 times, in corner space dc, ch 2, dc, [sc in next st, dc in next st] x 5, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 150 sts)

Change to Colour B.

R13: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each st, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 11 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 162 dcs)

R14: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 12 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 174 dcs)

R15: ch 3, dc in same st as sl st, *dc in each dc, [in corner space dc, ch 2, dc]**, repeat from * to ** 6 times, dc in remaining 13 dcs, sl st to top of 1st dc to join (12 chs, 186 dcs)

Change to Yarn C.

R16: ch 1, sc in every st around including corner chs, sl st to first sc in round to join (197 scs) – Please note: starting ch should not be crocheted into in this round.

Cut yarn and fasten off with an invisible fasten off. Weave in all yarn ends to hide.

---

Assemble Elsie the Elephant Lovey

Step 1: Sew trunk to head

Sew trunk to face using yarn tail from the trunk piece. The trunk sits between R15 and R20 of the head. The trunk should be pointing upwards. If you’ve used safety eyes, the trunk should sit in the middle of these. See image above for placement of trunk – the yellow pins represent the safety eyes.

Step 2: Sew ears to head

Use pins in the back of the middle of the ears to line the ears up on the head before sewing. The middle of the ears sit between R12 & R13 of the head on either side, with approximately 20 sts in between the ears on the head.

Sew approximately 4 sts of large part of the ear and approximately 3 sts of the small part of the ear to either side of the head. Ensure you crochet around both sides of the ear (at the front and back), and if you notice the ear flapping back a little, sew the last stitch on the big part of the ear forward by one st.

Step 3: Sew head to blanket

Using the yarn tail from the head, sew the head to the middle of the blanket. The blanket should be right side facing up. Sew between R22 to R23 of the head to R1 of the blanket.

Step 4: Sew legs to blanket

Sew the legs to either side of the head using the yarn tails from each leg. The legs are sewn to R1 of the blanket and between R22 to R23 of the head for extra security. Ensure the white nails are pointed upwards when sewing on the legs.

Step 5 (Optional): Embroider eyes

If you decided not to use safety eyes, embroider eyes between R14 & R16 of the head. I opted for an embroidered sleepy eye with eyelashes. Alternatively, you could embroider simple eyes.

---

Congratulations, you’ve finished crocheting Elsie the Elephant Lovey!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet elephant lovey pattern.

I’d absolutely love to see your creations and share them with the community. You can share your makes with me by posting a picture on social media using the hashtag #CillaCrochets and by tagging me @cillacrochets. I’ll also see your makes if you upload a project (with a photo) to Ravelry linking to my pattern.

If you’ve enjoyed this crochet pattern, you may also enjoy exploring more of the free crochet patterns on my website. I hope you find something else you like too!

Until next time, happy crocheting,

Cilla x

---

Copyright Notice

© 2024 Cilla Crochets. Cilla Richards – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only.

The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared, or posted (for sale or for free) over the internet or offline.

You can sell items made from this pattern if they are handmade by yourself in a limited number and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following text to your item description for any item designed by Cilla Crochets/Cilla Richards that you are selling:

“This product is handmade by [your name] from a design and pattern by Cilla Richards at Cilla Crochets. See www.cillacrochets.com for more information.”