This post contains affiliate links.
Phyllis the Platypus is a free amigurumi crochet pattern for intermediate crocheters.
This free Platypus Crochet Pattern was designed to join Kira the Koala in my collection of Aussie Amigurumi designs.
Phyllis is a little scientist amigurumi and comes with her own little accessories which include a white lab coat, a magnifying glass, and a flask. Her arms also swivel back and forth, one of my favourite crochet techniques for making your amigurumi movable! No wire or additional materials are needed except for yarn and a needle.
The amigurumi pattern is written in US terms in English only and is ideal for intermediate crocheters. You can get the free pattern right here on this webpage, or by signing up to my mailing list (just head to the form below) you can get the PDF pattern straight to your inbox.
I hope you like this little platypus amigurumi, and I’d absolutely love to see your makes! You can share your creations with me on social media by using the hashtag #CrochetPhyllisThePlatypus and by tagging me @cillacrochets.
Get the PDF Pattern
Phyllis the Platypus’ PDF Crochet Pattern includes additional photos throughout and means you can work offline or even print the crochet pattern in a workable format. Shop the PDF pattern via the platforms below.
Materials
Here are all the materials you’ll need to make Phyllis the Platypus.
- DK yarn (I used Rico Design Ricorumi DK 100% Cotton) in any colours you like. I chose the following:
- Berry (41 grams = 94.5 m/ 103 yds)
- Grey (16 grams = 37 m/ 40.5 yds)
- White (13 gram = 30 m/ 33 yds)
- Dark Aqua (3 grams = 7 m/ 7.6 yds)
- Light Aqua (2 grams = 5 m / 5.5 yds)
- Yellow (2 grams = 5 m / 5.5 yds)
- Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (US C/2)
- Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Pins
- 3 Stitch markers
- Safety eyes 6 mm (Option 1)
- Black embroidery thread (Option 2 – If you prefer to embroider the eyes)
Platypus Amigurumi Size
I used the yarn listed above with a 2.5 mm (US C/2) hook and the amigurumi turned out to be 13 cm / 5.11 ” high and 5cm / 1.96 ” wide across the largest part of the platypus’ body. Please note: I do tend to crochet quite tightly, so your Phyllis the Platypus may turn out slightly larger.
Platypus Crochet Pattern Abbreviations
The abbreviations used throughout this platypus crochet pattern are noted below.
R# – Row/round number
st – Stitch
ch – Chain
sl st – Slip stitch
mc – Magic circle
sc – Single crochet
inc – Increase
dec – Decrease
FLO – Front loop only
BLO – Back loop only
sk – Skip
[…] x … – Repeat the sequence of stitches in brackets x-times
(…) – Total number of stitches at the end of each row/round
Gauge
Gauge is not required, however there is a difference in gauge for the platypus and the coat. I’d recommend checking your tension when you go to make the lab coat. The lab coat should have slightly looser tension compared to your amigurumi platypus pieces. This will ensure the coat fits well.
Platypus amigurumi pieces:
14 sc stitches on 5 cm / 1.96 “
14 rows on 5 cm / 1.96 “
Platypus coat:
12 sc stitches on 5 cm / 1.96 “
12 rows on 5 cm / 1.96 “
Platypus Crochet Pattern Additional Notes
- Yarn: The yarn choice is completely up to you, and you can change the yarn weight, material, and colours based on your own personal preference. Just be aware that the weight of your yarn may impact the hook size you need to use and also the size of your final make.
- Hook size: I recommend using a smaller hook size than recommended on the yarn label. This will stop the stuffing appearing through your stitches.
- Eyes: In this pattern you have the choice of using safety eyes or embroidered eyes. Instructions are included for both within the PDF Crochet Pattern. Please note that safety eyes are a choking hazard and are not suitable for children under 3 years of age.
- Working in rounds: All parts within this pattern are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.
- Stitch marker: Use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round/row to keep track of the number of stitches.
- Stuffing: Unless otherwise stated, stuff all amigurumi parts firmly as you crochet.
- Decreases: I recommend using invisible decreases for all amigurumi pieces throughout. For pieces that are worked back in forth in rows, use a standard decrease.
- Changing colour: To ensure straight lines, add the new colour in the last yarn over of the sc before the new colour is needed.
Copyright Notice
© 2022 Cilla Crochets. Cilla Richards – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only.
The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared, or posted (for sale or for free) over the internet or offline.
You can sell items made from this pattern if they are handmade by yourself in a limited number and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following text to your item description for any item designed by Cilla Crochets/Cilla Richards that you are selling:
“This product is handmade by [your name] from a design and pattern by Cilla Richards at Cilla Crochets. See www.cillacrochets.com for more information.”
Let’s Start Crocheting Phyllis the Platypus
Now we’ve gotten all of the pattern particulars out of the way, let’s start crocheting Phyllis the Platypus!
Head, Body & Legs
The body, head and legs of Phyllis are all crocheted as one piece. Stuff this piece firmly as you crochet.
Using Berry coloured Yarn.
R1: mc with 6 sc (6)
R2: [inc] x 6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
R6: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)
R7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
R8: sc around (42)
R9: [6 sc, inc] x 6 (48)
R10 – 12: sc around (48) – 3 rounds
R13: [6 sc, dec] x 6 (42)
If using safety eyes, insert them now between R10 & R11 of the head with 8 sts in between the eyes. If you prefer to embroider the eyes, this can be left to the very end.
R14: sc around (42)
R15: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)
R16: sc around (36)
R17: [4 sc, dec] x 6 (30)
R18: sc around (30)
R19: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
R20: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)
Now you will start crocheting the body.
R21: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
R22: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
R23: sc around (30)
R24: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)
R25: sc around (36)
R26: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
R27 – 39: sc around (42) – 13 rounds
R40: [20 sc, inc] x 2 (44)
R41: [10 sc, inc] x 4 (48)
R42 – 43: sc around (48) – 2 rounds
Stuff body firmly.
Now you will crochet the legs.
Use 2 additional st markers to split R43 of the body into three sections. There should be 20 sts on each side with 8 sts (4 sc at the front and 4 sc at the back) in the middle section.
Continue crocheting from your end position in R41 to start the first leg.
R44: sc around to first splitting st marker, sc across to other side to form leg, sc back to the beginning (20)
R45: [2 sc, dec] x 5 (15)
R46: [sc, dec] x 5 (10)
Finish stuffing leg firmly.
R47: [dec] x 5 (5)
Cut yarn leaving a shorter yarn tail and fasten off. Using a needle weave through FLO of 5 sc and pull tight to close. Weave in yarn tail to hide.
Attach yarn to any sc on the other side of the middle st markers to crochet the 2nd leg.
Repeat R44 – R47 to crochet the second leg.
Using Berry coloured yarn, sew the middle of the legs together (R43) so no gaps appear.
Feet (Make 2)
Using Grey yarn.
Do not stuff.
Start by crocheting 4 toes. Do not fasten off last toe.
R1: mc with 4 sc (4)
R2: [sc, inc] x 2 (6)
R3: [2 sc, inc] x 2 (8)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Make 3 more toes by repeating R1 – R3, but don’t cut yarn or fasten off the last toe.
Line up all 4 toes in preparation for sewing. Toes should be in a straight line with 2 sts from each toe touching 2 sts of the next toe.
Using the 3 yarn tails from the fastened off toes, sew the middle sections of the toes together. Then continue to crochet the foot starting in the last st from the toe that you did not fasten off.
R4 – 5: sc around the edge of all toes skipping sewn stitches (20) – 2 rounds
R6: [8 sc, dec] x 2 (18)
R7: sc around (18)
R8: [7 sc, dec] x 2 (16)
R9: sc around (16)
R10: [6 sc, dec] x 2 (14)
R11: [5 sc, dec] x 2 (12)
R12: [4 sc, dec] x 2 (10)
R13: [3 sc, dec] x 2 (8)
R14: [2 sc, dec] x 2 (6)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Weave through FLO of 6 sc and pull tight to close. Repeat all steps to make a second foot.
Arms (Make 2)
Using Grey Yarn.
Start by crocheting 3 fingers. Do not fasten off last finger.
R1: mc with 4 sc (4)
R2: [sc, inc] x 2 (6)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Make 2 more fingers by repeating R1 – R2, but don’t cut yarn or fasten off the last finger.
Line up all 3 fingers in preparation for sewing. Fingers should be in a straight line with 2 sts from each finger touching 2 sts of the next finger.
Using the 2 yarn tails from the fastened off fingers, sew the middle sections of the fingers together. Then continue to crochet the arm starting in the last st from the finger you did not fasten off. Stuff this piece as you crochet from now on.
R3: sc around the edge of all fingers skipping sewn stitches (10)
R4: [4 sc, inc] x 2 (12)
R5: [2 sc, inc] x 4 (16)
R6: [2 sc, dec] x 4 (12)
R7: [4 sc, dec] x 2 (10)
Change to Berry coloured yarn.
R8 – R18: sc around (10) – 11 rounds
Finish stuffing arm.
R19: [dec] x 5 (5)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Using a needle, weave through FLO of 5 sc and pull tight to close. Repeat all steps to make a second arm.
Platypus Bill
Using Grey Yarn.
Lightly stuff.
Start: Ch 5
R1: Start in 2nd ch from hook and sc in next 3 sts, inc in last st, turn to crochet on other side of ch, sc in next 3 sts (8)
R2: inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc (12)
R3: inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, inc (16)
R4 – R10: sc around (16) – 7 rounds
The next section is crocheted back and forth in rows and only goes half way across the bill. Turning chs do not count in total st count.
R11: 8 sc, ch 1, turn (8)
R12: sc across (8)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off.
Platypus Tail
Using Berry coloured yarn.
Lightly stuff.
R1: mc with 6 sc (6)
R2: [inc] x 6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
R6 – R10: sc around (30) – 5 rounds
R11: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
R12 – 13: sc around (24) – 2 rounds
R14: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)
R15 – R19: sc around (18) – 5 rounds
R20: Hold sides of tail together and join with 8 sc leaving one unworked st at each end (8)
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off.
White Lab Coat
*Please note: Depending on your tension, you may wish to make the lab coat bigger by adding additional rows to either the sleeves or by repeating R13 for the lab coat to make it longer/wider. The arm holes however should still align even if you decided to make your coat larger.
Start with White yarn.
This section is crocheted back and forth in rows. Chs are not counted in total st count.
Start: Ch 31, turn
R1: Start in 2nd ch from hook and sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (30)
R2 – 10: 30 sc, ch 1, turn (30) – 9 rounds
R11: 3 sc, ch 6, sk 6, 12 sc, ch 6, sk 6, 3 sc, ch 1, turn (30) – St count excludes last turning ch. The gaps created are the arm holes.
R12: sc across in all sts including chs (30)
Turn to crochet around side of coat.
R13: 11 sc down side of coat, inc in corner, turn to crochet along bottom side of coat with 29 sc, inc in corner, turn to crochet along other side of coat with 11 sc, sl st to 1st sc in R12 to join (56)
Cut yarn leaving a shorter yarn tail and fasten off. Weave in yarn tails.
Lab Coat Sleeves
Attach White yarn to any bottom sc of arm hole on the lab coat.
The following rows are crocheted in the round using the 12 sts (6 sc and 6 ch) made between R10 & R11 of the lab coat.
R1: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
R2 – 6: sc around (18) – 5 rounds
R7: sc around, sl st to 1st sc (19)
Cut yarn leaving a short yarn tail and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Repeat steps to make the second sleeve.
Flask
Use Dark Aqua yarn.
Do not stuff.
R1: mc with 8 sc (8)
R2: [inc] x 8 (16)
R3: [sc, inc] x 8 (24)
R4: BLO sc around (24)
R5: [4 sc, dec] x 4 (20)
R6: [3 sc, dec] x 4 (16)
R7: [2 sc, dec] x 4 (12)
R8: [sc, dec] x 4 (8)
Change to Light Aqua yarn.
R9 – 12: sc around (8) – 4 rounds
R13: [FLO inc, sc] x 4, sl st to 1st st in round to join (12)
Cut yarn leaving short yarn tail and fasten off. Weave in yarn ends.
Magnifying Glass
Start with White yarn.
Do not stuff.
R1: mc with 8 sc (8)
R2: [inc] x 8 (16)
R3: [sc, inc] x 8 (24)
Change to Yellow yarn.
The next rounds are worked back and forth in rows. Turning chs are not counted in total st count.
R4: [FLO 2 sc, inc] x 8, ch 1, turn (32)
R5: sc around, ch 1, turn (32)
R6: sc around (32)
Cut yarn leaving a long yarn tail for sewing and fasten off.
Now make the handle.
Start with Colour F Yarn (Yellow).
R1: mc with 4 sc (4)
R2 – 7: sc around (4) – 6 rounds
Cut yarn leaving a longer yarn tail for sewing and fasten off. Follow assembly instructions to complete the magnifying glass.
Assembly Instructions
Now that you’ve crocheted all parts to make Phyllis the Platypus, it’s time for assembly. Follow the steps below to complete assembly of Phyllis and her accessories.
Magnifying Glass Assembly Instructions
Step 1:
Using yarn tail from magnifying glass sew entire edge of R6 to BLO of R3.
To do this, you will need to sew the first 2 sts in R6 to 2 sts of BLO R3, with every 3rd & 4th st in R6 being sewn to 1 st of BLO R3. This is so the st numbers match as there are 32 sts in R6 and 24 sts in R3.
Ensure you do not sew the gap within the yellow section together. This part should remain open for the handle.
Step 2:
Using the yarn tail from the magnifying glass handle, sew the handle in between the gap of the magnifying glass.
Your magnifying glass is now finished.
Platypus Amigurumi Assembly Instructions
Step 1:
Pin feet into place on the bottom of the legs. Align the centre st of R47 of the legs with a central st between R12 & R13 of the feet.
Sew feet to legs. Feet should be sewn between R12 & R13 to around R46 of the leg. Start by sewing the foot yarn tail into the foot and bring it out through the middle st between R12 & R13. Adjust your sewing as required so the feet sit flat.
Step 2:
Before pinning the arms into place, sew yarn tail from each arm back into each arm and out through a st between R17 & R18 of the same arm. The st where the yarn tail is now will be the section of the arm that sits against the side of the body.
Pin arms into place on the body before sewing. Arms sit between R25 & R26 of body with 15 sts in between the front of the arms.
Now we’re going to sew the arms on so they can swivel/move back and forth.
*Using yarn tail from one arm of platypus, sew into a st on body and out through the st on the opposite side aligned to the other arm. These sts should be between R25 & R26 of the body and 15 sts apart at front of body.
Weave into the same st in the second arm where the yarn tail is coming out from (between R17 & R18 of arm 2). Weave out of st just above, between R18 & R19 of arm.
Sew back through the exact same sts of the body so you are back on the side you started. Sew back into st of arm (between R18 & R19) and weave out through starting st (between R17 & R18 of arm).
Weave back into same st of body and out through any st at the back of platypus.
To ensure the arms are attached securely, repeat all steps from * using yarn tail from second arm. Ensure this yarn tail goes through all of the exact same sts of the arms and body as the first yarn tail and ends in the exact same st at the back of the platypus.
Pull yarn tails tight and double knot them together. Thread both yarn tails onto a needle and weave them back into body. Cut yarn to hide.
Step 3:
Sew bill to head. The flat section of the bill should sit between R10 & R11 of the head. The last st on each side of the flat section should go down by one row. The bottom section of the bill should sit between R15 & R16 of the head. Placement is indicated by the pins shown in the image below.
Step 4:
Sew tail to body. The tail should sit between R40 & R41 at the back of the body.
Step 5:
Put Phyllis in her lab coat and you’re done.
I hope you like your Phyllis the Platypus, and I’d absolutely love to see your makes!
Remember you can share your makes with me on social media by using the hashtag #CrochetPhyllisThePlatypus and by tagging me @cillacrochets.
If you enjoyed this pattern, you may also enjoy crocheting Phyllis’ friend – Kira the Koala.
Until next time, happy crocheting,
Cilla x
